Aotearoa

Yes, in answer to your questions (thanks for asking), we're all good here in New Zealand - as shaky as it may be. In all seriousness though - it was in Christchurch and we didn't even feel it here around Auckland. So, all is well, at least for us.

To be completely honest, there isn't much to say so far about New Zealand - just the good life, as usual. Dad and I are in Tauranga visiting my Nana while my sister and Mum are up in Auckland hanging out there for the week, since Kimbo works. But, it's apparently all worth it since she just got promoted (!!!!!!!!). Sorry Kim, if you stole your thunder - but I'm so happy for you!

So life here is slow, quiet, and uneventful - and for that I am grateful. I have spent the last few days doing laundry and showering regularly. Some clothes were so moldy they still had little green spots on them after two washes and had to be thrown out. My shoes have something green growing on them...

Today's spectacular events included waking up at 8:30 (courtesy of Dad), eating breakfast (toast and Marmite =) ), taking a walk down the beach with Dad, coming back to Nana's and relaxing, eating lunch (carrot soup - yum!), going to buy my Nana a new down duvet (she currently sleeps with 5 blankets on her bed - how long it takes to make and how she hasn't been crushed, I don't know), stopping for a coffee break, going to the driving range (Nana and I were excellent supporters - sorry Bill, I tried, but everything you taught me is out the window), coming home and relaxing (again), going out for dinner (practically my first non-vegetarian meal in two months), and now sitting here and updating my blog.

So, true to New Zealand style - our days revolve around food and tea breaks =).

Kim and Mum arrive on Friday night, and Saturday we celebrate my Nana's birthday. In the meantime, I have big plans to finish laundry, read a book, eat, and shower on a regular basis. Next week, back to Auckland.

=) Hope all is well!

Am I lucky or what?

So now that I am sitting in a comfy bed (yay for down duvets!) with a mac on my lap and a fast wireless connection in the air - I wanted to reflect on how lucky I have been to be able to travel like I did this summer. This will either read like a dedications page of a bad book, or an awards acceptance speech, but oh well.

Mom and Dad - thank you so so much for being so supportive of everything and helping me out in any way you could - including financially. On my trip I met so many people who were traveling to these places against their parents' wishes, because they just didn't understand why someone would want to travel like that. I don't know if I could have done this if you weren't behind me. So, thank you so much for "getting it" and being there every time I called (except that time I messed up the times and called at 3am).

Bill - thanks for updating my life each and every time we talked with normalcy. It was great to chat about what I was doing and where I was - but you have been my link to the real world the whole time. It sounds strange, and I never would have thought about that during my trip - but looking back, it was actually really a nice change to hear about life at work, and to be reminded what I have to come home to. =)

Carly - thanks for continuing to be your wonderful self by tagging and posting ridiculous things on my facebook pictures - this is why I post them =). Actually, this applies to Jenna too - who appeared to check and "like" my pictures after each post.

Kim - we didn't talk much, but my whole trip I was just so excited to come and see you - despite any assaults that may or may not have happened last year =) I'm glad I'm here now! And thanks for dealing with the current smell of mildew and mold that I have brought into your house.

The poor people at OIM to whom my dad has subjected this blog to during treatment - isn't there some insurance law about conflict of interest...? But really, I hope you liked it and know my dad loved giving them to you. Thanks.

Those of you who read my blog voluntarily. On some days I blogged since I had nothing better to do, and on others I really wanted to tell a good story - but either way, it was really nice talking to my mum and hearing that some people were actually reading it (by choice) and enjoying it. I loved logging on and reading your comments. This also applies to all of you who anonymously stalk my blog each day and are not followers and do not comment. I know you're out there.

I would like to thank United Airlines, KLM, Precision Airlines, Kenya Airways, Air India, and Malaysia Airlines for not once having lost my bags. It's a miracle really. After six weeks of traveling, numerous flights, bus rides, train rides, shady hotel rooms, etc., I have arrived in New Zealand with everything present and accounted for. Not once did I stand there at the luggage carousel thinking, "Why me?" Really, it's something to be thankful for.

Last but certainly not least, I want to thank all the students at EST. I know I've said it before and I hope you've each had a chance to read the memory book, but I had such a wonderful time there with you guys. You taught me many things - how to shower and wash my clothes at the spring, how to make momos and rip off noddles, how to slurp... You came with me to see the Dalai Lama. You put eye drops in my infectious eyes when I was sick (double thanks for that). You are all so welcoming and charming and I can't stop thinking about how I can see you guys again. I wish you would stay at EST so I would know where to come back to find you all, but for your sakes know that that isn't going to happen. For those of you who want to return to Tibet - I hope that you can soon (and that it's a better Tibet than the one you left), and for those of you who want to continue your studies at University - I wish you luck. For everyone else, I hope that you are able and free to do whatever it is you decide to do. If there is ever anything I can do to help anyone - from and English question to whatever, please please let me know. So, please stay in touch, and if I ever have the opportunity to return the hospitality - please let me know! Miss you guys!

Hello from Kuala Lumpur! (REDO)

This is the second time I have done this blog - I did it earlier from my iPhone and courtesy of Starbucks free wi-fi, but there were so many typos that I became ashamed and rushed to the nearest actual computer to restore my honor.

I arrived in Kuala Lumpur this morning at 7:00 am. Despite my tiredness I was determined to conquer Kuala Lumpur in a day. Let me tell you - this city is awesome and insanely easy to navigate (no Lonely Planet necessary)! To get around I had a choice of a monorail, multiple trains, buses, taxis, etc. This city is impressively developed and efficient.

So I got off my flight and booked it to customs where they issued me a "visitors visa" without a hassle - and my bags are checked all the way through to Auckland - so what a breeze! Within 30 minutes of landing I was getting a bus ticket for the airport/city shuttle. So I hopped on and it took me straight to KL Central. KL Central is the equivalent of Union Station - the main hub off taxis, monorail, trains, commuter trains, and whatever other transportation your heart desires. So I did the most important things first - strapped my money belt in my pants and headed to the first coffee shop I saw.

After being sufficiently caffeinated, I took the LRT (an acronym meaning some sort of train) to KLCC (an acronym meaning some important area of downtown). I got off and was in the middle of the nicest mall I've ever seen - it puts King of Prussia to shame. So I wandered outside away from the expensive clothing to find the Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur's big landmark. I walked around the mall twice before I looked up and realized I was IN one of the towers already. =) . So naturally I crossed the street to take a picture. Then I realized that everyone was actually dressed nicely and that I looked like I'd just spent 6 weeks in the outback....so I got my haircut.

BEST HAIRCUT EVER. I have no idea how it looks, nor do I care, but I may fly here every 6 weeks just so they can shampoo my hair and massage my scalp while talking in soothing voices with Michael Buble playing overhead. Mmmmm.

Once they woke me up, I headed for some food - what else - sushi. As soon as I saw one of those places where the sushi tempts you from cute little colored plates on a conveyor belt I knew I had to eat there. I had four mystery plates of goodness but I already miss the dirt-cheap prices I've become accustomed to. I haven't spent more than $3.00 on a meal since I left home!

Next, I got a taxi to China Town where there is a big market - Mum I looked high and low for some fabric but came up short - so I got you a knock-off Louis Vuitton instead. =). In the market they had a little spa where you can stick your feet in a little pool of water for a "fishicure" where these little fish eat the dead skin off your feet. I was really embarrassed when I stuck my feet in and all the fish ditched everyone else's tootsies and began a frenzy on my 6-week dirty feet. Afterwards, I fruit from a roadside stand (not the one with the dead chickens) and got the train back to KL Central.

I then sat at Starbucks for a while waiting for the bus and attempting to blog from my iPhone.

Which brings me to the Plaza Premium Lounge - a nice little lounge inside the Kuala Lumpur Airport where you pay a flat fee to get in and it has showers, free internet, massaging chairs, and all your food and drink is included - as well as a 15-minute massage. What could be better?

Only 5 hours to wait...

See you soon Kimbo!

My love-hate relationship with India.

As I've heard is normal when traveling to such ... um ... unique (?) places, I have developed a love-hate relationship with India.

I love the fact that you can get anywhere in India via cheap public transportation. For example, a 12-hour bus ride from Delhi to Dharamsala costs Rs250/$5.00. In America, if I don't feel like driving to Detroit, I have to pay $300 for a flight. Why can't we have an efficient bus and train system connecting all the states? Oh wait, that brings me to my hate of public transportation - efficiency. I have yet to be in a taxi/bus/or rickshaw for over 4 hours without a break-down or a flat tire. Trips that should take 6 hours take a whole day - and then you have to argue with the driver over the fare at the end.

I love the food. My dinner tonight - paneer butter masala with mixed vegetable raita and rice - served with fresh lime soda. Yum! The fresh lime (or as they call it, lemon) soda is fresh lime juice and sugar in the bottom of a glass which you then pour a bottle of soda water over. So refereshing! No lie - there isn't really a hate side to the food except perhaps the constant fear of Delhi Belly.

I love the fact that I can always find an internet cafe but hate the fact that you never know when the power will go out or the connection will just stop.

I love the fact that people here won't steal your stuff - but hate the fact that they might cheat you. There is a difference. That being said, the other day a man in Dharamsala came up to me after chasing me for a block in order to give me the Rs200/$4.00 that had fallen out of my pocket. He didn't even wait for me to give him any of it as thanks. I know $4.00 doesn't sound like much - but here it can buy me (and consequently him) two meals.

Which brings me to another love - the fact that the dinner I just had was Rs120/$2.50 (and I consider that pretty expensive).

I hate motorcycles. They're loud an obnoxious and people drive them like idiots. I have a video of a man and his wife driving a motorcycle down the "highway" with their 5-year-old (?) child propped up on the handlebars - it wasn't until the bike passed me that I saw the other child squeezed in front of the mother. Oh and no helmets. Come on people! But, I have to admit that I love the fact that when I'm stuck in a taxi in Delhi traffic, at least someone is getting somewhere!

I hate the weather at this time of year. How can one place be so damn hot and so damn wet all at the same time? However, I did come at the worst time of year (summer/monsoon), and so have to accept that it's largely my fault. That being said - when there is a mild, sunny day it is much appreciated and I love it. My last two days at the Tibetan school had great weather and you can't imagine how different everything seemed. You know that feeling you used to get (or still do) on the last day of school before summer break? It was like that. But I was in India, and it was just time for tea break.

I love the feeling of independence that comes with traveling alone (somewhat), but hate the fact that by definition it is impossible to share that feeling with others.

And so, I leave India tomorrow night with mixed emotions.

In the words of Heather - "Thank you for having me, India. You've been grand."

Rishikesh and the Ayurvedic Massage

First off, I would like to apologize to the Aussie sitting next to me since I currently stink (and look) of Ayurvedic massage oil.

I left McLeod Ganj and Dharamsala yesterday to another farewell from some of the students and set off for Rishikesh.

I arrived this morning (5:30am) into Dhera Dun on a bus, where I had to find another bus to take me to Rishikesh. Sorry people - I almost threw away all your souvenirs, as carting around two bags is a pain in my ass. But, luckily my amazing willpower kept it together and I tottered onto a bus (I had to pay for two people since I had too much crap - a total of $1).

After making it to Rishikesh, I called hotel after hotel until I found one that had available rooms (Mama's Guest Cottage) and tried to find a rickshaw to take me there. However, since the hotel is up on a hill - I had to get a taxi, as rickshaws don't quite have the horsepower...

So basically I got to my room at 9:00am, took a shower, and passed out.

Is it bad if I am alone in a new city and can't be bothered to do anything? It's hot and humid, and my trip is coming to an end. I've had a wonderful time, but to be totally honest with you (and myself) - I'm tired. I just want to spend the next two days relaxing in my nice $7 room with a comfy bed and a shower.

I forced myself to get some food - and after three weeks of amazing Tibetan food, I must admit I was craving Indian food a little. I then did the next logical thing. Booked a massage. Hey, I am in the yoga, massage, and other-relaxing-things capital of India.

Which brings us to the highlight of this blog. Oh, and if you're uncomfortable with talk of my nudity - I recommend you stop here.

For a country that in some ways is so modest - in some ways it is SO not.

The "massage parlor" is basically a little shack with some dividing walls - as you sit in the "waiting room" you can hear people's backs being slapped (I'm assuming that's what I heard). I arrived for my massage and the masseuse came a few seconds later - I think they must call them in when someone makes an appointment. So, me and the lady (at least a foot shorter than me) went into a room that is semi-separated from the lobby.

Then she told me (with gestures) to strip. I know it's all the same in the end, but in America when you get a massage, they politely leave you alone in the room for an eternity - allowing you to take off your clothes, fold them, and arrange yourself flatteringly on the bed (and under a sheet) while contemplating the extent of your nudity. Here - no such luxury. Just a little Indian woman watching me strip. But no worries, she too took off the bottoms of her salwar kameez and changed into leggings. Again, such a good thing she left her head covering on, because then I would have been really embarrassed.

So, I lay down on my stomach on a mat on the floor (no hole-for-the-head massage tables here!) and the massage begins. Really, not so different from any other massage - except for that her hands were so rough. But, I can't complain since my legs aren't exactly silky smooth. Just as I am thinking - "Wow, this isn't so different," I hear a sound you never think you will hear during a massage..."MOOOOOOOO!" Ah, yes, there is a cow wandering around right outside the window. So much for CDs of waves crashing on the shore, or of thunderstorms.

Then she flips me over onto my back. I literally mean SHE FLIPS ME OVER. I was just laying there all nice and covered, and then BAM. I didn't dwell on it for long though, because soon I became annoyed with the fact that my boobs are small enough that she could massage my ribs. Yes, my ribs - all of them. After my "rib" massage, she moved onto my face. Did you know that would could have your nose massaged? I mean really, your nose? Being the excellent, though jobless, Speech-Language Pathologist that I am, I know that there is, in fact, at least one muscle on your nose - but honestly, does it ever really need a massage? I would much rather her have spent more time on my ear lobes. =).

Next, my knees were brought up (not so gently) to my head. Yes Kim, you would be surprised at how flexible I can be when covered in oil and forced into pliability by a 4-foot-tall Indian lady.

So the massage continued as expected - in strange positions, covered in strange oils, manipulated by a strange lady.

Finally, when it was all over, she wiped all the oil off with a towel. Again, with the modesty. It's a little strange to be standing there (a giant by Indian standards), completely naked, looking down at a little lady crawling around your feet drying your legs, and then your "ribs", while you hear the sounds of cows mooing and motorcycles revving outside.

Now, back to my room for a good shower. =)

Oh, and I booked another for tomorrow.

Alone?!

While I have been traveling now for 6 weeks, I really haven't done anything totally alone. I had help with everything and was always picked up at the airports (well not always...) and at bus stations, etc. Really, I need to do something alone. A challenge, if you will.

Hence, my two day trip to Rishikesh.

So, today I need to take a taxi or a bus back down the mountain to Dharamsala and from there I catch a bus (14-hours!) to Dhera Dun. I will get in tomorrow morning and then I have to take a bus to Rishikesh (2 hours). So, if all goes according to plan, I will have most of the day Monday and Tuesday there. Then, Tuesday night or Wed AM I have to get to Haridwar (1 hour) where I catch a train (already booked) to Delhi. Then, I have to get a taxi to the airport and head off to New Zealand (via Kuala Lumpur for a day).

So, nothing too bad, but at least I can say I did SOMETHING all by myself - like a big girl. =)

The only major problem is that my phone doesn't seem to be working - I can receive calls, but can't make them. I keep being told that it's the network - but who knows? Anyhow, I may just get a cheapy and switch over my sim card because as it stands I can't call hotels or anything to see if they have rooms.

Going to listen to the Dalai Lama via radio today (that's the only way I can get it in English) while trying to cram everything into my bag...

Wish me luck!

My last 24 hours...

I thought I would be at the school until Sunday evening, when my bus leaves for Dhera Dun and Rishikesh, but the Dalai Lama is holding a teaching this weekend and we all wanted to attend.

So...I packed my things and headed up to McLeod Ganj for the weekend and will leave from here on Sunday.

I can't believe how quickly three weeks can go...

Last night, the students threw a party with dancing and singing - a memory I will never forget. Now, let me clarify that when I say singing - it means that each person individually has to get up in front of everyone and sing a song of their (or my choice). I was serenaded with English, Tibetan, Chinese, Korean, and Hindi songs (am I leaving anything out?). They were serenaded (or not) with the only song I could remember the words to - Lean on Me. Luckily for everyone I forgot the words to the second verse and had to stop. And yes, that is a Fanta microphone.




After being humiliated once, the traditional Tibetan dancing began - and I was further humiliated. Each time a new song would come on (and therefore a new dance would begin) I was assured that this was an "easy" one. It's all fun and games until someone gets run over. By the way, thank you to whoever took these photos on my camera - I'm glad I'll have the memories of making a fool of myself to treasure forever.




All joking aside - I could not be more appreciative of such a wonderful farewell.

Today, each student wrapped a white scarf around my neck as I left - a traditional way of blessing those who leave.




Again, to those of you students who will soon be reading this blog - I cannot thank you enough for a wonderful three weeks.

I wish I could have thought of a sentimental little speech to have given upon my departure - but it's just not my style. I have written down my thoughts and thanks in the memory book - please get it from Karmo so you can get the thanks you all deserve.

Some daily pics...

I'll have you all know that I have been working on this blog for over a week - uploading one picture at a time - one by one - hour by hour - soooooo sloooooooow.

Dolkar Tso, Dickyi Dolma, and Pema Dechen eating lunch...


Crispy rice is the best part - it's the rice that gets stuck to the bottom of the pan when it's cooked, then gets scraped off into one lucky diner's bowl...


Dolkar Tso and Pema Dechen walking to the spring for a shower...in the rain...with umbrellas...hmm


The awesome view from my bedroom...


A great backdrop for a basketball game...


Dakpa killing a spider in my room - look closely and you can see it's legs. Clearly it's huge! Wait - did I say killing? Buddhists don't KILL spiders - they chase them around your room, through your t-shirts, into your backpack, and up a fan, until releasing it peacefully right outside your door...gotta love it.


Dolkar Tso and Choeki studying...


Reading a book in the rare sunlight...


This is how we wash our hair...


...and our clothes...


...and how we get the mildew smell out of mattresses on a sunny day...


This is how we eat (I've been taking slurping lessons - which is necessary to cool the food - blowing on your mug/bowl is a thing of the past =) )...


...and brush our teeth down at the spring each night (my favorite part of the day).

It was bound to happen...

I'm a little nervous to write this blog and jinx myself, but here goes...

Miraculously I have thus far (knock on wood) escaped being sick in both Africa and in India - quite an accomplishment if you ask me. Thank you stomach! Who knew that the girl who gets respiratory infections every season would make it through six weeks of traveling without even the slightest hint of illness? So, it was bound to happen at some point - although it didn't come in the form I had expected.

My eye is a sore, swollen, oozing mess. Apparently there is some viral eye infection floating around the area, and it has found it's way to me. It's clearly highly contagious - but all the students have had it before in the past, and can't get it again. Be glad you're not here, and don't expect any photos of me in the next few days.

I am heading up to the Tibetan Hospital tomorrow, so hopefully they can help. In the meantime, I can't wear contacts, my eye seals shut when I sleep, and I can't see the students or the board when I'm teaching. Should be an interesting few days...

Leaving here for my first totally-alone excursion Sunday night for Dhera Dun, where I will take a bus to Rishikesh for a few days. Then, taking the train to Delhi, making a quick day-stop in Kuala Lumpur, and on to New Zealand. Hellooooooo running water and washing machines!!!!!

Amritsar

First, to answer your questions - Mom. Yes, I got on very well with the books - I forgot to mention that I guess, since I was so wrapped up in my motorcycle ride. I got about 35 books I think, using the money from you and Dad and a little of my own. The books here are fractionally cheaper than at home, but not much. Plus, I was pretty limited by the books in each of the bookstores. We went to about 5 different shops and I got some at each, but it's no Barnes and Noble!

Sorry I have been so bad with pictures - the connection here is so slow! Hopefully when I get to New Zealand I can camp at an internet cafe for a day and upload everything. Or, maybe when I'm in Rishikesh I can find a quick connection.

So, this weekend...was interesting.

I left the school Friday afternoon to head up to Dharamsala by bus, where I was going to meet the others (Rhiannon from Wales, Heather from England, and Anthony from the US - all of whom are staying in McLeod Ganj) later in the evening. I went to the hotel to check into our rooms, but of course they had given them away. So, I wandered around and found another cheap hotel (Rs250 / $5.00 for the night). I then went to an Indian restaurant (I've been eating only Tibetan food for the last two weeks) and had some very yummy food. When the others arrived, we all went back to the restaurant for a drink and ordered some more food. We went to bed early because we had to get up at 4:00 am to catch a 5:00 bus to Amritsar.

In the morning, when we went to meet Rhiannon, she had been sick all night (they call if Delhi Belly here). So, she decided not to come with us, but still came to the bus station so she could get a taxi home, but at the last second felt a little better, changed her mind, and got on the bus. Of course, I began to feel sick on the bus since we'd all eaten the same food the night before. But, true to Bill's wisdom I convinced myself it was all in my head, took a ginger pill, and was fine.

We arrived in Amritsar, took a rickshaw to a hotel, and dropped off our bags before heading to the Golden Temple. The Golden Temple is the biggest Sikh temple anywhere (?), and Amritsar is in the Indian state of Punjab, so it was much different from Delhi or Dharamsala, and quite a cool city. If you picture Indians wearing turbans and head coverings, this is the place you are imagining. Inside the temple, it is required to have your head covered - although I saw the private parts of three men since they bathe in the moat surrounding the temple. This is something I will never understand about India...the men pee on the side of a highway for all to see, but good thing they have their head covered! The Golden Temple itself was a little disappointing - but I've been spoiled with sights so far, and it's hard to measure up to the Taj Mahal or Humayan's Tomb.

After the temple, we got a taxi with some other people to the India/Pakistan border, where they have an official border-closing ceremony every night. It was by far one of the coolest things I've done since I've been here. It sort of has the feel of a sport match. There's an announced who leads cheers - he yells "Hindustan" (the name for Hindu India), and the crowd yells something back (which I don't understand). You can hear the Pakistan side doing the same thing - except there are so few Pakistanis, and hundreds of Indians. Meanwhile, lines of soldiers march back and forth in front of the crowds toward the border gate. There's concessions and everything outside where you can buy water, samosas, and corn which they "grill" over coals and then rub with lemon and salt. Yum! So after the festivities, we returned to Amristar for dinner (we were still all a little cautious with our menu choices) and bed.

No sure what my eyes are doing in this photo...




Look closely at this next one - click on it to make it bigger - you can see both the Indian and Pakistani soldiers.



The next day I did some shopping with Heather while Anthony and Rhiannon checked out some more sights - including the Mata temple where you can pray to get pregnant, and the Silver Temple which is the Hindu equivalent of the Sikh Golden Temple.

We asked the hotel to book us a taxi home, since the bus left too early in the day and we left Amristar around 4:00 in a private taxi. Sounds nice - but it ended up being the worst part of the entire weekend.

The plan was for the taxi to drop me off first, as I live before Dharamsala, then to continue up to McLeod Ganj to drop the other two off. But of course, the driver was new and got lost so we ended up at the Dharamsala bus station without having passed my house. So, we told him that he would have to drive 10km back down to take me home, and then take them home. This is when he demanded we give him extra money. We had already paid Rs1500 at the hotel, and owed him 1500 on arrival, but now he wanted 1700 to take us home. Of course this turned into a massive fiasco involving Rhiannon and I, the taxi driver, and a crowd of new taxi drivers - all of whom wanted to take us home. We stood at the bus station in the rain for at least 45 minutes before we got back in the car and started to pull away...but of course we had a flat tire. So, in the end, he took me to my house, and last I checked was taking Rhiannon and Anthony home, but I'm still waiting to hear what the conclusion was. I have faith - Rhiannon's tough and will stand her ground!

So, that was our interesting weekend. I leave Saturday morning for Chandigarh and Rishikesh. I can only hope it measures up!

Motorcycles and MSG

I haven't once been on a motorcycle - nor have I ever wished I had. So naturally, my first time on a motorcycle would be scaling the Himalayas toward McLeod Ganj on the back of a motorcycle driven by the manager of the school (Tenzin), without a helmet. My second time would be coming back down with a backpack full of books, holding on for dear life to Tenzin, whose backpack was strapped to his stomach and therefore inhibiting the use of his arms...

Luckily there was dinner waiting when we arrived home and someone graciously passed me the packet of flavoring they all add to their food, which I proceeded to add to my soup. It then occurred to me (for the first time since I've been here) to ask what it was. After a few missed translations it all became clear. For ten days I have voluntarily been adding MSG to my dinner each night. They keep packets of this stuff in the kitchen. They then told me that if I ever want to get "drunk" (as if I need help) I can add MSG to Coke (Coca-Cola that is) and it will make you drunk. But, they added as a disclaimer, be very careful not to use too much - because a few years ago 16 kids died from getting "drunk" off too much of the MSG-Coke booze. I think I'll steer clear of the concoction - and stop putting it in my dinner.

So other than that, I'm doing well. Two new volunteers arrived today and I am teaching them the ways of the world - showering in the torrent of water we refer to as a spring, hand-washing on the rocks, predicting the rain (it's easy, it rains constantly) so you know when to bring in your clothes, and avoiding MSG.

A quick update.

Just a quick update before classes start in 10 minutes. I'm back safe and sound from McLeod Ganj (obviously) and missing the fast internet connection!

Just spending the week teaching as usual - today is Phillipa's last day, so I am now teaching four English classes each day plus one conversation class. However, rumor has it that two new volunteers may be arriving some time this week - so that would make a big difference.

You won't be surprised to know that I have found myself a little project here - reorganizing their library. They have a good number of books, and there is a list for students to look at, but it doesn't list the authors and they're not separated by type. So, since the students are not native English speakers, they have a hard time choosing books. Naturally, I want to organize the list and add authors, plus get some new books for their library. Thanks Mom and Dad for the help! I think I'm going up to McLeod again today for the afternoon to go on a bookstore spree. It should be interesting since each bookstore has a small and random selection of books - so it will be a matter for getting a few books from each of many stores. I have been asking the students what types of books they like - so hopefully I can find what I'm looking for.

This weekend - a rushed trip to Amritsar and the border crossing at Atilla. Details are still being organized, but it involves six or eight hours of travel each way and about 20 hours there.

Still figuring out plans for my last weekend here. Am probably going to Chandigarh with some friends and then Rishikesh (where the Beatles once stayed in an Ashram) on my own for two days, before flying out. I don't want to spend any more time in Delhi that I have to.

Enjoy the rest of your week! Happy (now late) Birthday Bill!

Weekend in Mcleod Ganj

So, I finally am somewhere with a really quick connection and am making the best of it. I have added some photos to the post from yesterday, and also a few more onto facebook. It's obviously not all of them - I'm trying no to get too greedy!

So, an update on my movements: Some of other volunteers I know are up in Mcleod Ganj - about 15 km up the mountain from where I am (although it takes over an hour to get there). I had planned on coming up today (Saturday) with the other volunteer at my placement, but yesterday some of the students were coming up, so I decided to come with them and try to meet up with my friends, Rhiannon and Anthony.

So, I grabbed some food and got myself a cute little hotel room and met up with them for a drink afterwards.

This morning we got up early to see the Dalai Lama, who was holding a special prayer service for the victims of the floods in Pakistan. We just saw the top of his head, and the service itself was all prayers in Tibetan, so it wasn't the most exciting thing I've done thus far, but worth the experience. Also, every person in attendance was served Tibetan bread and tea.

So here I am now at the internet cafe. This is the fastest connection by far I have had in over a month - I'm just mad I don't have all my memory cards with me so I could finally get those videos up! Oh well.

Plan for the day includes shopping for souvenirs and books for the school, getting a new sim card, and taking my first hot shower in ages!

Next weekend I am to Amritsar and the India/Pakistan border for the closing ceremony which is held each night (look it up - it's really awesome, and not what you'd think at all).

Then next weekend is my last weekend in India, and I'm going to Chandigarh for the weekend and then taking a train back to Delhi, where I will have one or two days left before I leave.

Thanks for all the feedback!

How to have a momo party.

First you must ring the bell to gather everyone together for the festivities.

Then, clear the floor in the classroom in order to chop the meat. Then, screw a meat grinder onto the desk and grind all the meat up.


While the boys do this, girls (or vegetarian boys) should begin chopping leafy greens, carrots, and lots of onions. Someone else should start grating cheese.


Then, put all the vegetables into a bowl and add masala (spices) and salt. In a separate bowl, used only for meat, mix the ground meat, onions, salt, masala, and water - by hand.


Make dough and knead it.


The dough must then be pulled into small pieces by two people. Two other people should roll the pieces into little balls, and two other people should flatten the dough balls into little pancakes.


Then, at separate tables, put the meat and the vegetables in the center of each dough disk. In order to make a momo, you must pinch the sides together in a circular fashion that is obviously a skill associated with some gene that Tibetans have and I do not.




Then, place all the momos in steaming trays. Be very careful to stack vegetarian trays and meat trays separately.


If there is a good attitude among fellow momo-makers, you may partake in a flour fight.


After all the momos have been steamed, ring the dinner bell and gather together for a momo feast. It is recommended that a mix of vinegar and super-hot chili be made in order to dip the momos in.


After dinner, Tibetan music should be played, but it is fine to mix it with songs by Celine Dion, Bryan Adams, and especially Shakira. Afterwards, watch a movie called "Richard Gere is my Hero."

Then, you will have successfully had a momo party.

My new daily life.

So, as I mentioned, I have been a horrible blogger since I have been here and it's about time that I updated you with some information and photos. With the exception of constant rain and fog (although it miraculously cleared up this evening), I haven't one single complaint about this place. It's beautiful and peaceful, I love my work here, and I love the people.

A typical day consists of getting up at 6:50 and having breakfast at 7. Breakfast usually consists of chai tea and rolls. I eat mine plain, but lots of others eat them with homemade chili. I tried the smallest possible amount of chili today and still wish I hadn't.

At 8, classes begin. I teach three classes in the morning (all English). The 22 students are split into three groups, so I have one class with each of them before we have tea break (more tea and rolls).

After tea break I teach one more English class and then a "conversation" class, where we discuss a topic as a group (Nature v. Nurture, What is intelligence and how should it be measured?, etc.). Then I split them up and assign them points of view, which they have to debate. It's my favorite part of the day because in many situations I think they have such different points of view than we as Westerners have. I learn a lot about Buddhism in this class!

Then, we have lunch (the students are typically still debating) which is a big bowl of rice with some type of vegetarian dish - always good!


For the rest of the afternoon I do lesson planning, shower, wash clothes, read, etc. Sounds simple - but let me explain. To shower, I need to gather my things, including two buckets and walk to the spring. The spring is spout coming out of a rock wall with enough water pressure to knock the bucket out of your hands. It's all water from a nearby river - I don't know if it's filtered, but it's what I drink and I haven't been sick (knock on wood), so they're doing something right. So, at the spring, I fill the bucket with ice-cold water and take it into a hut where I have to use a smaller bucket to pour this water over me. To wash my hair, I have to perch precariously on the side of the spring, bend over, and shove my head under the water. It takes incredible neck strength! Then, still upside down, I feel for my shampoo, rub it in, and then throw myself back into the torrent of water for a rinse. I haven't even attempted conditioner. Hand washing clothes on the rocks is an art I haven't yet mastered...


So, during the afternoon the students study, do homework, and play sports until dinner. Dinner (also amazing) is usually some sort of noodles in broth with veggies (or occasionally meat). We then (all of us) go down to the spring to brush our teeth. Then, we all just relax and read for the rest of the night on typical nights. One night a week they have a game night where some students have to make up a game for everyone to play - it's been entertaining to say the least!






Tonight we're having a Momo (?) party, which happens once a month. It deserve's it's own blog and I'm taking a ton of pictures, so look forward to that!

So, I hope that sums it up. Needless to say I'm really enjoying myself here!

Love to all!

(My humble abode)

Taj Mahal

So I just realized when going through my camera that I never uploaded pics from the Taj Mahal. Nothing earth-shattering to share, just wanted to show you some photos.







On second thought, you didn't actually think I could manage not saying anything did you?

The Taj Mahal was built by a king for his wife when she died, and the entire building is made from white marble. The arabic writing and all the decorations around the sides are from onyx or tiny inlaid stones. The whole building is symmetical from every side - with one exception. When the Taj was built, the wife of the king was buried in the middle, but when the king himself died, her was buried alongside his wife - to her right. Now, the only unsymmetical part of the entire building are the graves.

I have been working hard on getting some photos of life here at my new home in the mountains - but tonight is a party here and the sun has finally cleared out of the sky, so I promise I'll post something tomorrow. I've been an awful blogger since I arrived here, I know. Hopefully I'll find some time tomorrow and the wait will be worth it.

I think I'm in the wrong country...

So, I arrived in Dharamsala this morning at 6am after a 12 hour bus-ride (not air-conditioned, and no bathroom) and got dropped of at my home/work for the next three weeks.

So far I think is by far going to be the most rewarding experience of the whole trip. I am teaching English at a school for Tibetan refugees, most of whom are adults in their twenties and thirties. Basically, a lot of these people walked for up to three months through the Himalayas as refugees from Tibetan China to live in India. They were then placed in "Tibetan Transit" schools which are supposed to help equip them to find jobs, but after years at these schools their English still isn't good enough, so they have come here where they eat, sleep, and breathe English all day, every day. They live here at the school for up to two years and attend 5 hours of classes a day and have 2 hours of English study time in the evening. I have only spent three hours with them (one hour in each of three classes) so far, but it is so amazing how dedicated they are to learning English.

I have my own little room in the woods behind the school and have to wash (myself and my clothes) in a little spring about a 2 minute walk away. This place is beautiful - haven't had a chance to take any pictures yet, but they're soon to come! Basically, we are in Dharamsala which is about half way up a mountain and a 5 minute drive from Mcleod Ganj, where the Dalai Lama lives (yes Mom, I saw his house today). Actually, Phillipa, the other volunteer here, attended his birthday party last month. Anyhow, I live between the Dalai Lama, and another Lama who is the second in command, so I am surrounded by holiness.

Back to geography, I am halfway up a mountain in Northern India - Kashmir to the north, Tibet to the east, and Pakistan to the west. Almost everyone in this area is Tibetan, so I really feel like I left India and am on a whole new trip - the difference between here and Delhi is huge. Delhi was...well you've read the blogs and seen the pictures. Here I am basically stranded up in the mountains where I have to bathe in a spring (this is also where I get drinking water). I am not being sarcastic when I say this is awesome!

Another plus to this place is a much-needed change from Indian food, which I got in both Delhi and Tanzania. In Tibetan food, their carbohydrate overload includes noodles as well as rice, bread, and potatoes - so I am really expanding my menu.

There are about 35 (?) students here, all with names I can't pronounce, but am working on it. As I said, I think they are all in their 20s and 30s, both guys and girls. All morning I taught classes (informally, since I just got dropped off 4 hours ago), and they were all so interested in learning everything about me. Somehow the hardships of graduate school don't seem to measure up to the perils of crossing the Himalayas by foot, but I did my best.

A day of relaxation.

After three full days of being out and about in Delhi (exhausting!), I am spending the day wrapping up some things and packing for the next leg of my trip.

Yesterday we had language lessons in the morning (not effective), returned home for lunch, and then set out for Delhi.

We saw the Akshardham temple/complex/palace (?), which was the most extravagant thing I have seen on this whole trip. I don't have any photos, because you can't take in cameras. Basically it's right next to the Commonwealth Games Village and consists of this massive palace and all the grounds and temples around it. Inside the palace, almost everything you see is carved marble and all these gold statues of the Hindu gods. Around the palace going the whole way around the walls are life-like carvings of elephants - each one different from the other. Outside the walls is a moat, and then on the other side of that are all sorts of ridiculously extravagant exhibits. I can't do it justice, but trust me that if you ever come to India, you should really come to this place -even though it's not in the guidebooks. You could spend a whole day there easily. The only bad thing is that you can't help but think how much money the palace is worth and how there are millions of starving people outside the walls...

In the evening we went to Connaught Place, where we did a little shopping and went to dinner as a big group since we all split up after this weekend.

So the plan for today is to pick up a few things from the market, relax and get packed and organized for my trip, see a Bollywood movie, Hindi Language lessons, then hopefully sleep - although it's been difficult at 90 degrees, especially when the power goes out and the ceiling fans stop. Basically I just lay awake at night in a puddle of my own sweat. We all want to sleep outside on the roof, but there are monkeys...

Tomorrow, we see the Taj Mahal and then I leave late at night for a 12-hour bus ride to Palumpur/Dharamsala - still not sure exactly where I'm going. So, who knows about internet access.

Love to all!

The hardest day of my life.

Sightseeing Day 2

We saw some sights today, and these were great. But, the things I will remember about today are not the sights.

We began with a leisurely (this is sarcasm) drive into Old Delhi. On the phone the other night, Mom asked me what side of the road people drive on here. This is what I told her: The technical answer is the left side. The actual answer is that whoever gets there first goes. It's not uncommon for me to look out a window and see a car going the opposite direction between our car and another going the same direction as us. As a general rule, there are no lane lines on roads - not to separate lanes, or even different directions. It's just basically a 6-lane blacktop free-for-all. Also, divided highways - not so strict here.




We not-so-soon arrived at India Gate. Basically, everything here is covered in scaffolding because of the Commonwealth Games in October, which sort of takes away the effect.


We then continued on to the Jama Masjid. I can't tell you any good facts about this because I hardly remember it. On the way to the mosque we walked up this long walkway where I saw things and people I can't even begin to describe. I obviously don't have pictures, but just be glad you weren't there. At one point I turned around to one of the other girls and said, "This is by far the most disturbing day of my life," and when I looked at her she was just crying. It was really that bad.

So, here's are some picture of Jama Masjid, but you should look at them be reminded of everything you have.






We then went down some alleyway to a hole-in-the-wall restaurant called Karim's, which is supposed to be one of the best in Asia. Again, I don't remember as much of the food as I do the people I passed on my way there and out.

The Red Fort was next, which is cool because it is where the Prime Minister speaks every year on Independence Day, which is coming up August 15th.


And finally, the last sight of our two-day extravaganza was Raj Ghat, which is where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated. A solemn finale to reflect on the day.


And here are some photos to leave you with.