My love-hate relationship with India.

As I've heard is normal when traveling to such ... um ... unique (?) places, I have developed a love-hate relationship with India.

I love the fact that you can get anywhere in India via cheap public transportation. For example, a 12-hour bus ride from Delhi to Dharamsala costs Rs250/$5.00. In America, if I don't feel like driving to Detroit, I have to pay $300 for a flight. Why can't we have an efficient bus and train system connecting all the states? Oh wait, that brings me to my hate of public transportation - efficiency. I have yet to be in a taxi/bus/or rickshaw for over 4 hours without a break-down or a flat tire. Trips that should take 6 hours take a whole day - and then you have to argue with the driver over the fare at the end.

I love the food. My dinner tonight - paneer butter masala with mixed vegetable raita and rice - served with fresh lime soda. Yum! The fresh lime (or as they call it, lemon) soda is fresh lime juice and sugar in the bottom of a glass which you then pour a bottle of soda water over. So refereshing! No lie - there isn't really a hate side to the food except perhaps the constant fear of Delhi Belly.

I love the fact that I can always find an internet cafe but hate the fact that you never know when the power will go out or the connection will just stop.

I love the fact that people here won't steal your stuff - but hate the fact that they might cheat you. There is a difference. That being said, the other day a man in Dharamsala came up to me after chasing me for a block in order to give me the Rs200/$4.00 that had fallen out of my pocket. He didn't even wait for me to give him any of it as thanks. I know $4.00 doesn't sound like much - but here it can buy me (and consequently him) two meals.

Which brings me to another love - the fact that the dinner I just had was Rs120/$2.50 (and I consider that pretty expensive).

I hate motorcycles. They're loud an obnoxious and people drive them like idiots. I have a video of a man and his wife driving a motorcycle down the "highway" with their 5-year-old (?) child propped up on the handlebars - it wasn't until the bike passed me that I saw the other child squeezed in front of the mother. Oh and no helmets. Come on people! But, I have to admit that I love the fact that when I'm stuck in a taxi in Delhi traffic, at least someone is getting somewhere!

I hate the weather at this time of year. How can one place be so damn hot and so damn wet all at the same time? However, I did come at the worst time of year (summer/monsoon), and so have to accept that it's largely my fault. That being said - when there is a mild, sunny day it is much appreciated and I love it. My last two days at the Tibetan school had great weather and you can't imagine how different everything seemed. You know that feeling you used to get (or still do) on the last day of school before summer break? It was like that. But I was in India, and it was just time for tea break.

I love the feeling of independence that comes with traveling alone (somewhat), but hate the fact that by definition it is impossible to share that feeling with others.

And so, I leave India tomorrow night with mixed emotions.

In the words of Heather - "Thank you for having me, India. You've been grand."

Rishikesh and the Ayurvedic Massage

First off, I would like to apologize to the Aussie sitting next to me since I currently stink (and look) of Ayurvedic massage oil.

I left McLeod Ganj and Dharamsala yesterday to another farewell from some of the students and set off for Rishikesh.

I arrived this morning (5:30am) into Dhera Dun on a bus, where I had to find another bus to take me to Rishikesh. Sorry people - I almost threw away all your souvenirs, as carting around two bags is a pain in my ass. But, luckily my amazing willpower kept it together and I tottered onto a bus (I had to pay for two people since I had too much crap - a total of $1).

After making it to Rishikesh, I called hotel after hotel until I found one that had available rooms (Mama's Guest Cottage) and tried to find a rickshaw to take me there. However, since the hotel is up on a hill - I had to get a taxi, as rickshaws don't quite have the horsepower...

So basically I got to my room at 9:00am, took a shower, and passed out.

Is it bad if I am alone in a new city and can't be bothered to do anything? It's hot and humid, and my trip is coming to an end. I've had a wonderful time, but to be totally honest with you (and myself) - I'm tired. I just want to spend the next two days relaxing in my nice $7 room with a comfy bed and a shower.

I forced myself to get some food - and after three weeks of amazing Tibetan food, I must admit I was craving Indian food a little. I then did the next logical thing. Booked a massage. Hey, I am in the yoga, massage, and other-relaxing-things capital of India.

Which brings us to the highlight of this blog. Oh, and if you're uncomfortable with talk of my nudity - I recommend you stop here.

For a country that in some ways is so modest - in some ways it is SO not.

The "massage parlor" is basically a little shack with some dividing walls - as you sit in the "waiting room" you can hear people's backs being slapped (I'm assuming that's what I heard). I arrived for my massage and the masseuse came a few seconds later - I think they must call them in when someone makes an appointment. So, me and the lady (at least a foot shorter than me) went into a room that is semi-separated from the lobby.

Then she told me (with gestures) to strip. I know it's all the same in the end, but in America when you get a massage, they politely leave you alone in the room for an eternity - allowing you to take off your clothes, fold them, and arrange yourself flatteringly on the bed (and under a sheet) while contemplating the extent of your nudity. Here - no such luxury. Just a little Indian woman watching me strip. But no worries, she too took off the bottoms of her salwar kameez and changed into leggings. Again, such a good thing she left her head covering on, because then I would have been really embarrassed.

So, I lay down on my stomach on a mat on the floor (no hole-for-the-head massage tables here!) and the massage begins. Really, not so different from any other massage - except for that her hands were so rough. But, I can't complain since my legs aren't exactly silky smooth. Just as I am thinking - "Wow, this isn't so different," I hear a sound you never think you will hear during a massage..."MOOOOOOOO!" Ah, yes, there is a cow wandering around right outside the window. So much for CDs of waves crashing on the shore, or of thunderstorms.

Then she flips me over onto my back. I literally mean SHE FLIPS ME OVER. I was just laying there all nice and covered, and then BAM. I didn't dwell on it for long though, because soon I became annoyed with the fact that my boobs are small enough that she could massage my ribs. Yes, my ribs - all of them. After my "rib" massage, she moved onto my face. Did you know that would could have your nose massaged? I mean really, your nose? Being the excellent, though jobless, Speech-Language Pathologist that I am, I know that there is, in fact, at least one muscle on your nose - but honestly, does it ever really need a massage? I would much rather her have spent more time on my ear lobes. =).

Next, my knees were brought up (not so gently) to my head. Yes Kim, you would be surprised at how flexible I can be when covered in oil and forced into pliability by a 4-foot-tall Indian lady.

So the massage continued as expected - in strange positions, covered in strange oils, manipulated by a strange lady.

Finally, when it was all over, she wiped all the oil off with a towel. Again, with the modesty. It's a little strange to be standing there (a giant by Indian standards), completely naked, looking down at a little lady crawling around your feet drying your legs, and then your "ribs", while you hear the sounds of cows mooing and motorcycles revving outside.

Now, back to my room for a good shower. =)

Oh, and I booked another for tomorrow.

Alone?!

While I have been traveling now for 6 weeks, I really haven't done anything totally alone. I had help with everything and was always picked up at the airports (well not always...) and at bus stations, etc. Really, I need to do something alone. A challenge, if you will.

Hence, my two day trip to Rishikesh.

So, today I need to take a taxi or a bus back down the mountain to Dharamsala and from there I catch a bus (14-hours!) to Dhera Dun. I will get in tomorrow morning and then I have to take a bus to Rishikesh (2 hours). So, if all goes according to plan, I will have most of the day Monday and Tuesday there. Then, Tuesday night or Wed AM I have to get to Haridwar (1 hour) where I catch a train (already booked) to Delhi. Then, I have to get a taxi to the airport and head off to New Zealand (via Kuala Lumpur for a day).

So, nothing too bad, but at least I can say I did SOMETHING all by myself - like a big girl. =)

The only major problem is that my phone doesn't seem to be working - I can receive calls, but can't make them. I keep being told that it's the network - but who knows? Anyhow, I may just get a cheapy and switch over my sim card because as it stands I can't call hotels or anything to see if they have rooms.

Going to listen to the Dalai Lama via radio today (that's the only way I can get it in English) while trying to cram everything into my bag...

Wish me luck!

My last 24 hours...

I thought I would be at the school until Sunday evening, when my bus leaves for Dhera Dun and Rishikesh, but the Dalai Lama is holding a teaching this weekend and we all wanted to attend.

So...I packed my things and headed up to McLeod Ganj for the weekend and will leave from here on Sunday.

I can't believe how quickly three weeks can go...

Last night, the students threw a party with dancing and singing - a memory I will never forget. Now, let me clarify that when I say singing - it means that each person individually has to get up in front of everyone and sing a song of their (or my choice). I was serenaded with English, Tibetan, Chinese, Korean, and Hindi songs (am I leaving anything out?). They were serenaded (or not) with the only song I could remember the words to - Lean on Me. Luckily for everyone I forgot the words to the second verse and had to stop. And yes, that is a Fanta microphone.




After being humiliated once, the traditional Tibetan dancing began - and I was further humiliated. Each time a new song would come on (and therefore a new dance would begin) I was assured that this was an "easy" one. It's all fun and games until someone gets run over. By the way, thank you to whoever took these photos on my camera - I'm glad I'll have the memories of making a fool of myself to treasure forever.




All joking aside - I could not be more appreciative of such a wonderful farewell.

Today, each student wrapped a white scarf around my neck as I left - a traditional way of blessing those who leave.




Again, to those of you students who will soon be reading this blog - I cannot thank you enough for a wonderful three weeks.

I wish I could have thought of a sentimental little speech to have given upon my departure - but it's just not my style. I have written down my thoughts and thanks in the memory book - please get it from Karmo so you can get the thanks you all deserve.

Some daily pics...

I'll have you all know that I have been working on this blog for over a week - uploading one picture at a time - one by one - hour by hour - soooooo sloooooooow.

Dolkar Tso, Dickyi Dolma, and Pema Dechen eating lunch...


Crispy rice is the best part - it's the rice that gets stuck to the bottom of the pan when it's cooked, then gets scraped off into one lucky diner's bowl...


Dolkar Tso and Pema Dechen walking to the spring for a shower...in the rain...with umbrellas...hmm


The awesome view from my bedroom...


A great backdrop for a basketball game...


Dakpa killing a spider in my room - look closely and you can see it's legs. Clearly it's huge! Wait - did I say killing? Buddhists don't KILL spiders - they chase them around your room, through your t-shirts, into your backpack, and up a fan, until releasing it peacefully right outside your door...gotta love it.


Dolkar Tso and Choeki studying...


Reading a book in the rare sunlight...


This is how we wash our hair...


...and our clothes...


...and how we get the mildew smell out of mattresses on a sunny day...


This is how we eat (I've been taking slurping lessons - which is necessary to cool the food - blowing on your mug/bowl is a thing of the past =) )...


...and brush our teeth down at the spring each night (my favorite part of the day).

It was bound to happen...

I'm a little nervous to write this blog and jinx myself, but here goes...

Miraculously I have thus far (knock on wood) escaped being sick in both Africa and in India - quite an accomplishment if you ask me. Thank you stomach! Who knew that the girl who gets respiratory infections every season would make it through six weeks of traveling without even the slightest hint of illness? So, it was bound to happen at some point - although it didn't come in the form I had expected.

My eye is a sore, swollen, oozing mess. Apparently there is some viral eye infection floating around the area, and it has found it's way to me. It's clearly highly contagious - but all the students have had it before in the past, and can't get it again. Be glad you're not here, and don't expect any photos of me in the next few days.

I am heading up to the Tibetan Hospital tomorrow, so hopefully they can help. In the meantime, I can't wear contacts, my eye seals shut when I sleep, and I can't see the students or the board when I'm teaching. Should be an interesting few days...

Leaving here for my first totally-alone excursion Sunday night for Dhera Dun, where I will take a bus to Rishikesh for a few days. Then, taking the train to Delhi, making a quick day-stop in Kuala Lumpur, and on to New Zealand. Hellooooooo running water and washing machines!!!!!

Amritsar

First, to answer your questions - Mom. Yes, I got on very well with the books - I forgot to mention that I guess, since I was so wrapped up in my motorcycle ride. I got about 35 books I think, using the money from you and Dad and a little of my own. The books here are fractionally cheaper than at home, but not much. Plus, I was pretty limited by the books in each of the bookstores. We went to about 5 different shops and I got some at each, but it's no Barnes and Noble!

Sorry I have been so bad with pictures - the connection here is so slow! Hopefully when I get to New Zealand I can camp at an internet cafe for a day and upload everything. Or, maybe when I'm in Rishikesh I can find a quick connection.

So, this weekend...was interesting.

I left the school Friday afternoon to head up to Dharamsala by bus, where I was going to meet the others (Rhiannon from Wales, Heather from England, and Anthony from the US - all of whom are staying in McLeod Ganj) later in the evening. I went to the hotel to check into our rooms, but of course they had given them away. So, I wandered around and found another cheap hotel (Rs250 / $5.00 for the night). I then went to an Indian restaurant (I've been eating only Tibetan food for the last two weeks) and had some very yummy food. When the others arrived, we all went back to the restaurant for a drink and ordered some more food. We went to bed early because we had to get up at 4:00 am to catch a 5:00 bus to Amritsar.

In the morning, when we went to meet Rhiannon, she had been sick all night (they call if Delhi Belly here). So, she decided not to come with us, but still came to the bus station so she could get a taxi home, but at the last second felt a little better, changed her mind, and got on the bus. Of course, I began to feel sick on the bus since we'd all eaten the same food the night before. But, true to Bill's wisdom I convinced myself it was all in my head, took a ginger pill, and was fine.

We arrived in Amritsar, took a rickshaw to a hotel, and dropped off our bags before heading to the Golden Temple. The Golden Temple is the biggest Sikh temple anywhere (?), and Amritsar is in the Indian state of Punjab, so it was much different from Delhi or Dharamsala, and quite a cool city. If you picture Indians wearing turbans and head coverings, this is the place you are imagining. Inside the temple, it is required to have your head covered - although I saw the private parts of three men since they bathe in the moat surrounding the temple. This is something I will never understand about India...the men pee on the side of a highway for all to see, but good thing they have their head covered! The Golden Temple itself was a little disappointing - but I've been spoiled with sights so far, and it's hard to measure up to the Taj Mahal or Humayan's Tomb.

After the temple, we got a taxi with some other people to the India/Pakistan border, where they have an official border-closing ceremony every night. It was by far one of the coolest things I've done since I've been here. It sort of has the feel of a sport match. There's an announced who leads cheers - he yells "Hindustan" (the name for Hindu India), and the crowd yells something back (which I don't understand). You can hear the Pakistan side doing the same thing - except there are so few Pakistanis, and hundreds of Indians. Meanwhile, lines of soldiers march back and forth in front of the crowds toward the border gate. There's concessions and everything outside where you can buy water, samosas, and corn which they "grill" over coals and then rub with lemon and salt. Yum! So after the festivities, we returned to Amristar for dinner (we were still all a little cautious with our menu choices) and bed.

No sure what my eyes are doing in this photo...




Look closely at this next one - click on it to make it bigger - you can see both the Indian and Pakistani soldiers.



The next day I did some shopping with Heather while Anthony and Rhiannon checked out some more sights - including the Mata temple where you can pray to get pregnant, and the Silver Temple which is the Hindu equivalent of the Sikh Golden Temple.

We asked the hotel to book us a taxi home, since the bus left too early in the day and we left Amristar around 4:00 in a private taxi. Sounds nice - but it ended up being the worst part of the entire weekend.

The plan was for the taxi to drop me off first, as I live before Dharamsala, then to continue up to McLeod Ganj to drop the other two off. But of course, the driver was new and got lost so we ended up at the Dharamsala bus station without having passed my house. So, we told him that he would have to drive 10km back down to take me home, and then take them home. This is when he demanded we give him extra money. We had already paid Rs1500 at the hotel, and owed him 1500 on arrival, but now he wanted 1700 to take us home. Of course this turned into a massive fiasco involving Rhiannon and I, the taxi driver, and a crowd of new taxi drivers - all of whom wanted to take us home. We stood at the bus station in the rain for at least 45 minutes before we got back in the car and started to pull away...but of course we had a flat tire. So, in the end, he took me to my house, and last I checked was taking Rhiannon and Anthony home, but I'm still waiting to hear what the conclusion was. I have faith - Rhiannon's tough and will stand her ground!

So, that was our interesting weekend. I leave Saturday morning for Chandigarh and Rishikesh. I can only hope it measures up!

Motorcycles and MSG

I haven't once been on a motorcycle - nor have I ever wished I had. So naturally, my first time on a motorcycle would be scaling the Himalayas toward McLeod Ganj on the back of a motorcycle driven by the manager of the school (Tenzin), without a helmet. My second time would be coming back down with a backpack full of books, holding on for dear life to Tenzin, whose backpack was strapped to his stomach and therefore inhibiting the use of his arms...

Luckily there was dinner waiting when we arrived home and someone graciously passed me the packet of flavoring they all add to their food, which I proceeded to add to my soup. It then occurred to me (for the first time since I've been here) to ask what it was. After a few missed translations it all became clear. For ten days I have voluntarily been adding MSG to my dinner each night. They keep packets of this stuff in the kitchen. They then told me that if I ever want to get "drunk" (as if I need help) I can add MSG to Coke (Coca-Cola that is) and it will make you drunk. But, they added as a disclaimer, be very careful not to use too much - because a few years ago 16 kids died from getting "drunk" off too much of the MSG-Coke booze. I think I'll steer clear of the concoction - and stop putting it in my dinner.

So other than that, I'm doing well. Two new volunteers arrived today and I am teaching them the ways of the world - showering in the torrent of water we refer to as a spring, hand-washing on the rocks, predicting the rain (it's easy, it rains constantly) so you know when to bring in your clothes, and avoiding MSG.

A quick update.

Just a quick update before classes start in 10 minutes. I'm back safe and sound from McLeod Ganj (obviously) and missing the fast internet connection!

Just spending the week teaching as usual - today is Phillipa's last day, so I am now teaching four English classes each day plus one conversation class. However, rumor has it that two new volunteers may be arriving some time this week - so that would make a big difference.

You won't be surprised to know that I have found myself a little project here - reorganizing their library. They have a good number of books, and there is a list for students to look at, but it doesn't list the authors and they're not separated by type. So, since the students are not native English speakers, they have a hard time choosing books. Naturally, I want to organize the list and add authors, plus get some new books for their library. Thanks Mom and Dad for the help! I think I'm going up to McLeod again today for the afternoon to go on a bookstore spree. It should be interesting since each bookstore has a small and random selection of books - so it will be a matter for getting a few books from each of many stores. I have been asking the students what types of books they like - so hopefully I can find what I'm looking for.

This weekend - a rushed trip to Amritsar and the border crossing at Atilla. Details are still being organized, but it involves six or eight hours of travel each way and about 20 hours there.

Still figuring out plans for my last weekend here. Am probably going to Chandigarh with some friends and then Rishikesh (where the Beatles once stayed in an Ashram) on my own for two days, before flying out. I don't want to spend any more time in Delhi that I have to.

Enjoy the rest of your week! Happy (now late) Birthday Bill!

Weekend in Mcleod Ganj

So, I finally am somewhere with a really quick connection and am making the best of it. I have added some photos to the post from yesterday, and also a few more onto facebook. It's obviously not all of them - I'm trying no to get too greedy!

So, an update on my movements: Some of other volunteers I know are up in Mcleod Ganj - about 15 km up the mountain from where I am (although it takes over an hour to get there). I had planned on coming up today (Saturday) with the other volunteer at my placement, but yesterday some of the students were coming up, so I decided to come with them and try to meet up with my friends, Rhiannon and Anthony.

So, I grabbed some food and got myself a cute little hotel room and met up with them for a drink afterwards.

This morning we got up early to see the Dalai Lama, who was holding a special prayer service for the victims of the floods in Pakistan. We just saw the top of his head, and the service itself was all prayers in Tibetan, so it wasn't the most exciting thing I've done thus far, but worth the experience. Also, every person in attendance was served Tibetan bread and tea.

So here I am now at the internet cafe. This is the fastest connection by far I have had in over a month - I'm just mad I don't have all my memory cards with me so I could finally get those videos up! Oh well.

Plan for the day includes shopping for souvenirs and books for the school, getting a new sim card, and taking my first hot shower in ages!

Next weekend I am to Amritsar and the India/Pakistan border for the closing ceremony which is held each night (look it up - it's really awesome, and not what you'd think at all).

Then next weekend is my last weekend in India, and I'm going to Chandigarh for the weekend and then taking a train back to Delhi, where I will have one or two days left before I leave.

Thanks for all the feedback!